English translated by Minghui Wang
Each season briefly holds its unique splendor: fluttering cherry blossoms, blooming hydrangeas, dramatic red maple leaves, and pristine white snow. But, as the Japanese poet Fujiwara no Okikaze lamented, “Hundreds of flowers and thousands of grasses all flourish yet all will wither.” In order to hold on to each invaluable instant, the Japanese carved their observations of the subtle changes of each season into a wide variety of delicate confections named “wagashi.”
Jōnamakashi, historically the wagashi used for gifting among the upper class, boasts exceptionally exquisite designs that reflect the beauty of the current season. (Shutterstock)
A Legendary Fruit Sets the Stage
Wagashi is traditional Japanese confectionery. “Wa” signifies Japan, and the remaining syllables refer to desserts made from fruit. Legend has it that wagashi originated from an ancient myth. When Emperor Suinin, the 11th emperor of Japan, fell ill, he heard that far away there exists an Eternal Land. There, a special fragrant fruit grows that’s used as medicine to achieve immortality. So the emperor sent out a courtier named Tajimamori to hunt for the fruit.
Worshipped as the “god of sweets,” Tajimamori was the legendary figure associated with the origin of wagashi. (Public domain)
After 10 years, Tajimamori finally returned with the special fruit, only to find the emperor had already passed away. Devastated, this loyal courtier planted the branches of the fruit tree beside the emperor’s imperial tomb, then followed his leader to the grave by ending his own life.
The special fruit associated with wagashi’s origin is the tangerine. Centuries have passed, yet Japanese people still see tangerines as a traditional symbol of longevity. This little fruit sparked the beloved tradition of eating carefully crafted small sweets, especially to mark important events and people throughout the year.
June in Japan brings heat, humidity, and rain that make people susceptible to illness. To ward off this misfortune, a tradition is celebrated every year on the last day of June. It’s known as “Nagoshi no Harae” (the Purification Ritual of Summer’s Passing). Members of the imperial court traditionally snacked on ice on that day.
Peasant families had no access to ice, so they made a dessert with a base that has a texture in between jelly and “kuih” and delightfully resembles the cooling effects of ice. It consists of a white triangular “uirō-mochi” (Japanese steamed cake) made from rice flour, and a layer of red adzuki beans on top. The red color of the beans on top is believed to drive away evil spirits. The treat is called Minazuki, which also means June. Minazuki is delicious, and it also cleanses away midyear chaos and disaster, while attracting blessings for the coming months.
Wagashi Through the Millennia
Tea was first introduced to Japan by Buddhist monks in the Kamakura period (1185–1333) when they returned from their pilgrimages to China. Elements of China’s Song Dynasty culture quickly spread throughout Japan. New food traditions took off, too, such as the thick lamb soup and the steamed bun. But the Japanese replaced the meat ingredients in the treats because of their religious beliefs. Red adzuki beans and wheat flour took center stage. The thick, jellied confection we know as Yokan today, and many other popular sweets, are the result of such modifications.
Originally created as a lamb-less alternative to the Chinese jelled lamb broth, the Yokan reinvented the recipe of its foreign twin and became the red-bean paste, jellied sweet we love today. (Shutterstock)
With these new recipes as a foundation, people in each historic period further enriched them. The desserts’ appearances changed in the Muromachi period (1336–1573) to reflect the culture of the time. Some wagashi were exquisitely carved into peaches, the legendary moon rabbit, and other elements with Chinese influence. Soon, symbols of Japan’s culture, such as cherry blossoms and gingko leaves, were also made into their edible versions. As wagashi artisans completely moved away from imitating Chinese desserts, a strong wagashi culture that was unique to the Japanese people took root.
