English text by Nadia Ghattas
Chinese text translated by Yi-Chun Lin
Pictures courtesy of CAMUS Cognac
There is a famous little corner of one of the most visited countries in the world. It is located in Charente, in southwestern France, named after the Charente River. It is the source of oysters and, most importantly, the grape that produces the unmatched “eau-de-vie”—the water of life, or Cognac, derived from the Charente district of Cognac. There, you will see a landscape dotted with chalky hills and land that characterize the terrain lined with famous and ancient vineyards that, for centuries, have produced the most distinctive Cognac.
Standing in the heart of it all, right in the center where Cognac began, is the last international Cognac House that is entirely family-owned. It is the House of CAMUS, known for its very complex yet very pleasant Cognacs.
No other spot in the world combines the unique climate and soil conditions that produce the Cognac grapes. These remarkable grapes produce a superlative aroma once their juice has been distilled into Cognac. Once the grapes on the vines ripen in September and early October, they are finally ready for harvesting and are pressed into juice and fermented into wine. This is the beginning of a long, complicated, and exacting process as the wine is distilled and then aged into Cognac.
The Vines of the Borderie, from where come some of the most floral of all Cognacs, with unique aromas not found in other types of Cognac made in the region.
Cognac AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée), or controlled appellation of origin, is an area that totals about 79,000 hectares of vineyards (that is, 790 million square meters). The wine region of Cognac is in fact the second biggest in France, right after the wine region of Bordeaux. In the Cognac region, there are six different growth areas: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires.
Standing at the heart of it all, right in the center where Cognac originated, is the last international Cognac House that is entirely family-owned. It is the House of CAMUS, known for its very complex yet very pleasant Cognacs. These Cognacs have intense floral and fruity aromas reflecting the best of the terroir. From the Borderies region come some of the most floral of all Cognacs, with unique aromas not found in other types of Cognacs made in the region. Since its inception in 1863, the House of CAMUS has the focused passion to produce Cognacs with unprecedented intense aromas like no other. From generation to generation, the vision and tradition have been passed down. Each generation strives to improve the superiority of their Cognac. Each generation tries to take one step further in that direction. It is almost like an act of faith. In a world dominated by globalization and standardization, the Camus family is staunchly independent and creates Cognacs that best reflect the rich flavors of their terroirs.
The eaux-de-vie is put to sleep for aging in small, toasted, old Limousin oak barrels to help it mature and provide elegant and delicate tannins for a perfect balance between the fruity and floral aromas, thereby creating more intense, distinctive fruity and floral aromas with just a hint of oak.
Today, Cyril Camus resides at the helm of the House of CAMUS, and just like his forefathers before him, he is leaving his mark on the House by reinventing the Cognacs that bear his name. With a group of experts, Cyril invented the patented technique called “instensity,” bringing his Cognacs to new highs of aromatic intensity.
Cyril Camus, the fifth-generation head of the House of CAMUS.
CAMUS’s new fifth-generation range of Cognacs is the culmination of 15 years of innovation and development applied and supported by over 150 years of expertise and traditional know-how of the House. It is also the largest vineyard owner in the Borderies region, with Borderies wines being a major component of the family’s Cognacs.
In a phone conversation with Cyril, he told me that the House of CAMUS is “meticulous in every step of the way—from the way we harvest to the distillation and aging—to really tweak every step and focus it on increasing the aromatic intensity. And we keep improving our systems to ensure this happens.” This unique method of fractional reintroduction of the heads into the eau-de-vie, differs from the standard process used by other Houses. Cyril continued to say: “It is exclusively performed by hand, whereby the first liters of ‘heads,’ which are usually discarded in traditional distillation, are systematically and carefully tasted liter by liter at CAMUS, with the most complex and aromatic of them integrated into the ‘heart’ of the distillation, to get a higher concentration of esters and a more pronounced aromatic intensity.
The process of hand-crafting eaux-de-vie is under the close supervision of Cellar Master Patrick Léger.
In the House of CAMUS Cognac, you can make your own blend of Cognac on the blending table, which is like a chemistry lab to create the magical spirit in a bottle.
This is a non-automated system and is done by hand, under the close supervision of the Cellar Master, Patrick Léger, only in small pot stills. At this point, ‘man’s’ work is done and the rest is left in the hands of nature to do its magical work. The eau-de-vie is now put to sleep for aging in small, toasted, old Limousin oak barrels to help it mature and provide elegant and delicate tannins for a perfect balance between the fruity and floral aromas, thereby creating more intense, distinctive, fruity and floral aromas with just a hint of oak”.
Cellar Master Patrick Léger is checking the new distillation process.
Traditionally, seven grape varieties are allowed in the production of Cognac, under the strict requirements of the French government’s minimum standards. Today, three principal grape varieties are used: Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard.
There are many Cognac producers in the region, each applying the same basic principles: Grapes must be planted and harvested in the specified AOC regions, the Cognac must be twice distilled, and aging must take place in oak barrels. Ugni Blanc is the main grape used in Cognac, with each producer having its own unique blend and preferred size of oak cask. CAMUS, however, is unique in many ways: First it opts for a higher blend of Colombard and Folle Blanche varietals, using three different strains of yeast in the fermentation process. Distillation takes place on the lees, and aging is done in very old, small, lightly toasted casks. All of these techniques deliver unique aromatic complexity and balance to the spirit.
CAMUS Very Special presents the highest concentration of rich and fruity aromas enhanced with a hint of spice. It radiates with floral notes of jasmine and violet.
In 2019, using the patented “instensity” process, the House of CAMUS produced three new and exceptionally aromatic Cognacs: Very Special, VSOP, and XO.
CAMUS Very Special presents the highest concentration of rich and fruity aromas, enhanced with a hint of spice. It radiates with floral notes of jasmine and violet.
CAMUS VSOP resonates with lavish floral and fruity aromas associated with notes of oak, spice, and vanilla.
CAMUS XO delivers the intensity of fresh and candied fruits associated with touches of honey, chocolate, almonds, and hazelnuts.
Being fiercely independent and innovative, CAMUS enlisted a design agency to create the new packaging for the three new Cognacs, to provide an open statement of Cyril Camus’s conviction and passion, and present the CAMUS story in an engaging and revealing way:
CAMUS presents its philosophy and commitments on the front of the box and bottle label, both signed by the hand of Cyril Camus. The tasting notes are prominent both on the front label and on the box, helping to guide the consumer on CAMUS Cognac’s unique flavor profile.
The secret of CAMUS’s aromatic intensity is revealed by the three cornerstones of its production, which are boldly stated on the box.
The packaging design initiates an unusual color scheme in the world of Cognac, evoking the terroir and heritage of the Charente region: Petrol gray recalls the flint stones typically found in the Borderies soil, and lavender blue is a reminder that this is one of the sunniest areas of France. The touches of white and gold bring elegance, modernity, and dynamism to the whole.
Reading the label on Cyril’s three fifth-generation Cognacs and understanding the meaning of the colors imprinted on the bottles trigger one’s senses of taste, smell, and imagination to new heights. Seek it and you shall be rewarded.
