By Gigi Tseng ｜Pictures courtesy of Patek Philippe
Geneva’s watchmaking industry is so synonymous with luxury and prestige today, it may come as a surprise to learn that its roots date back to the mid-1500s—right in the midst of the Protestant Reformation, an era when frugality and austerity reigned supreme.
French theologian and pastor Jean Calvin, a stern authority who kept the city’s moral fabric firm in his grasp, banned the wearing of jewelry in a bid to curb vanity and superfluous spendings. This decree was a devastating blow to Geneva’s goldsmiths. Desperate to sustain their craft, they sought new ways to channel their artistry.
Thinking quickly, these artisans redirected their talent toward a more practical purpose: watchmaking. Soon, timepieces of unprecedented beauty began popping up on the market. In addition to fine-tuning the mechanisms for precise timekeeping, the craftsmen lavishly adorned these pieces with precious stones and enamel.
Thus, in a twist of fate, the era’s strict societal conformity gave rise to a tradition of precision and beauty that would forever secure Geneva’s place as a global capital of horology.
Today, this legacy is kept alive by Patek Philippe, the last family-owned, independent watch manufacturer in Geneva. Founded in 1839 and one of the world’s oldest watchmakers, the company is beloved for its attention to detail and commitment to preserving a skill now under threat in the digital age.
To honor this heritage, the artisans unveil a unique collection of timepieces for the company’s Rare Handcraft Exhibition each year. In 2025, Patek Philippe produced 78 pieces, including 23 dome table clocks of different sizes, 1 desk clock, 10 pocket watches, and 44 Calatrava and Golden Ellipse wristwatches.
Among them, the 992/138G-001 pocket watch stands out as an ode to nature. Inspired by the majestic landscape of Zhangjiajie National Forest Park, its white gold case back features a miniature enamel painting of towering mountains reaching into the heavens. From thorny bushes clinging to steep slopes to a pair of eagles gliding high above, every detail of the watch is exquisitely rendered.
This ethereal realm lies in the northwestern reaches of China’s Hunan Province and is listed as a UNESCO Global Geopark. Spanning more than 26,000 hectares and home to over 3,000 towering sandstone peaks, it is a rare natural wonder still pure and untouched by human influence.
Using a minuscule brush and powdered enamel mixed with lavender oil, the Patek Philippe’s craftsmen captured every nuance of this iconic scene. Most striking is the opalescent enamel, used to conjure the cool mountain mist, creating the illusion of a sea of clouds at dawn.
On the inside, the watch’s dial is adorned with a delicate, hand-engraved pine branch set against a background of guilloche work—a technique that uses an antique, manually operated machine to carve geometric patterns into the metal. When tilted to the light, the motif comes alive in a shimmering dance. Both the case back and dial are coated with translucent enamel, a process known as flinqué enamel, to add strength and luster to the piece.
In a stroke of ingenuity, the artisans eschewed the traditional Roman numerals, opting for Chinese numbers and leaf-shaped hands wrought in white gold to mark the hours. Last but not least, a 0.24-carat green tourmaline cabochon is set in the crown—symbolizing nature, growth, and new beginnings—long said to bring healing and balance to its wearer.
Time, as we know it, may be fleeting, but nature and beauty endure. In the hands of master artisans, these seemingly opposing forces are brought together in perfect harmony, celebrating horology at its finest.
(Top featured image reproduced by ELITE Lifestyle Magazine)
